Polydish city guide

Best Barbacoa de Borrego in Chicago

“Lamb steamed overnight in an earth pit under maguey leaves. Sunday begins underground.”

What the real thing tastes like

True central-Mexican barbacoa is lamb wrapped in maguey leaves and steamed overnight in a stone-lined earth pit, the drippings collected as consomé served alongside. The meat arrives in shreds that need no knife; the consomé, rich with garbanzos and rice, is the pit's second gift. A weekend-morning institution with lines before eight.

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The consomé cup gets equal billing with the taco in most reviews — pit drippings described as the truest broth there is. Weekend-only scarcity structures the ritual, and maguey perfume in the meat is the note reviewers say no oven can counterfeit.